A Year of Tomatoes

A Year of Tomatoes

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By Jenny Underwood Tomatoes are one of my favorite crops to grow and preserve. There are thousands of varieties to choose from. Which tomatoes should you grow? Well, that is an entirely personal question, and you must consider many variables. First, what are you looking for in a tomato? A sauce tomato or a big, fresh eating one? Is it essential to grow heirloom seeds, or are you okay with hybrids? What color? What shape? What climate? These are all questions you must ask yourself before starting your plants or purchasing sets.

A few of my favorite tomatoes are Amish Paste (large 8- to 12-ounce solid fruits perfect for sauces), Big Rainbow (huge, striped fruits that weigh over a pound, delicious for fresh eating), Mountain Man (a hybrid that produces 8- to 12-ounce fruit), Dad’s Sunset (delicious orange fruits), and White Tomesol (a white or cream, 6 ounces). Research your problems, such as blight, bugs, and dry or wet weather, and pick plants that still thrive in those conditions. Don’t expect a cool weather variety to do well in a place with hot, humid summers, or you will be disappointed. Starting your tomatoes from seed is an excellent way to get the varieties you want. When you depend on purchasing sets from a store, you are limited to what they stock. Not so with seed starting; the sky is the limit! You will need a grow light or plenty of sunshine, seed-starting soil, and a warm place to start your seeds. Don’t forget to label your plants well. We start ours near our wood stove on a stand we built, and it holds the trays and the grow light on an adjustable chain.

First, we prepare our trays. For several years, we have used disposable cups with holes poked in the bottom for drainage. We set these in large, shallow plastic totes under the lights. Moisten your seed starting soil and fill your containers about 2/3 full. Plant 2 to 3 seeds per pot (you will thin these) and lightly cover them with dirt. Mist spray the containers. No need to turn on your grow light until your seeds have sprouted, which takes anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, depending on conditions.

After your seeds sprout, they must be under a grow light, in a sunny window, or in a greenhouse. The light should be within a couple of inches of the plants. An adjustable tray or light is very beneficial because this prevents the plants from trying to “reach” for the light and becoming leggy. Ensure you water your plants often but don’t allow them to become waterlogged. After the seedlings are two weeks old, you can water them with a weakened fertilizer. I use a fish and seaweed emulsion at 1/4 strength. Fertilize every week after that. We start our seeds 6 to 8 weeks before we expect to set them out in the garden. Don’t forget to harden off your seedlings by taking them outside in a protected area for a few hours a day until they become used to the change in the climate. This reduces transplant shock.

When it’s time to plant your tomatoes, grab a tool to dig holes with and water with a natural fertilizer or a time-release fertilizer. Dig a hole big enough to bury your seedling almost to the top leaves. This produces a strong root system as the roots will grow along the stem also. Sprinkle your time-release fertilizer or water with the liquid after planting. Be sure to provide staking for your tomatoes. Sturdy cages from cattle panels or welded wire work well. Plant your tomatoes far enough apart for good airflow to help prevent diseases and pest infestations. Pests can be a big problem with tomatoes, and a common one is hornworms. Some will tell you to handpick the worms off, but this is simply not practical for larger gardens. We do not use harsh chemicals, but we do use an organic pesticide called Bt on our tomatoes for hornworms. It works great, and since we started using it, we have had no problems with them. We apply it only once or twice during the whole season.

Another pest we deal with is aphids. Diatomaceous earth works semi-well for them, but neem oil works much better. We did have to spray more than once for these persistent bugs.

Disease can also wreak havoc on your crops. Our area struggles with blight (hot, humid conditions). To help combat this, we plant our tomatoes four feet apart, plant resistant varieties, and cull any plants that become diseased. Enough sunlight will help fight this horrible disease. Don’t give up if you have problems with either bugs or diseases. Research answers because, most likely, someone else is dealing successfully with the same issues. Be sure to water your tomatoes thoroughly and often. In hot, dry weather, they may need to be watered daily. Mulch to help prevent moisture loss. Remember, tomatoes require a balanced fertilizer that provides nitrogen to set blossoms but also has plenty of other nutrients to avoid things like blossom end rot (calcium, magnesium, etc.).

When it comes time to harvest your tomatoes, you can wait until they are fully ripe to enjoy them fresh; however, if you plan to preserve them in a few days, then pick them before they have full color so they will last a few days on your counter. They will continue to ripen, so this prevents them from being overripe. Some varieties keep better than others.

To preserve your tomatoes, you have plenty of options. Follow a tested recipe for safe results. A few places to look are The Ball Blue Book, your local NRCS office (they’ll test canners for you), and the USDA’s Complete Guide to Home Canning. Tomatoes may be canned whole (blanched and peeled), halved, crushed, or made in sauces, chutneys, relishes, ketchup, or soups, and be dehydrated, frozen, freeze-dried, and fermented. I encourage you to give tomatoes a try. They are an excellent addition to a self-sufficient lifestyle.


Originally published in the May/June 2023 issue of Countryside and Small Stock Journal and regularly vetted for accuracy.

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