Simple Lye Soap Recipe
Reading Time: 5 minutes
Create simple lye soap recipes and learn how to make soap with lye at home with these four scented variations.
by Jenny Underwood
One of my favorite things is making my own items to replace store-bought ones. It gives me a wonderful sense of accomplishment, is healthier, and usually saves me money. Making enough soap to last our family of six a year was one such thing, and this is my favorite way to make it!
First off, you’ll need some supplies. Ensure you have them ready before you attempt your first batch of soap. You’ll need a glass or heavy plastic 1-gallon or larger container. Gallon glass jars and tea pitchers (glass or plastic) both work well, a digital scale that measures ounces, plastic or wooden stirring spoons, an immersion blender, vinegar, lye (pure, food grade is best), fat (coconut or tallow work best in this recipe), water, essential oils (optional), gloves and goggles, soap molds, towels, and cardboard or lids.
This recipe will make 40 ounces of soap. You’ll need 16 ounces of lukewarm water, 5.5 ounces of lye, and 40 ounces of fat. This process is called the “heat transfer method,” which means you add your fat to the lye water solution, and the lye water melts the fat and comes to a workable temperature together. A few words about your fat: it should be room temperature, not frozen or refrigerated, or this method won’t work properly. Always measure your ingredients and have them ready to use in separate containers. I use disposable containers such as reused plastic bowls or plastic storage bags to measure my lye so I can just throw them away. All your other supplies can be reused.
Cover your table or work area with plastic or newspaper to protect from spills. Make sure small children and pets are secured away from you, as lye water will burn badly. Wear disposable gloves, goggles, and long sleeves when handling lye. Have white vinegar on hand in case you spill lye water on anything. Note: The dry lye isn’t corrosive, so if you spill some, clean it off dry, then dampen a paper towel with vinegar and clean the area. Have your mold ready before you start making your soap. This can be an actual soap mold (make sure it holds at least 40 ounces), plastic bowls, or a pan lined with parchment paper or wax paper. It’s best if the mold can hold at least half of the soap because it needs the heat generated to form properly.
Simple Lye Soap Recipe Base
Start by measuring 5.5 ounces of lye into a container. Then, in your glass or plastic gallon container, measure 16 ounces of lukewarm water (you may also use tea, coffee, or herbal infusions). Slowly add the lye to the water, stirring gently. The lye water will release toxic fumes, so do not breathe it or splash it on you. Work in a well-ventilated area.
The lye water will become extremely hot (boiling), and now is when you’ll begin putting in your fat. Carefully spoon or place the fat into the lye water. As you do this, it’ll start to melt. Stir to combine until you have all the fat in the lye water. Place your immersion blender in and begin to blend on low. Make sure you go from the bottom to the top. Continue to do this until combined well.
Blend on medium (moving your blender stick up and down and side to side) until it forms a trace. (Tracing is when the soap mixture sits on top of the batch in a swirl and looks like a thick lotion.) Usually, this takes 5 to 10 minutes. You may blend for 5 minutes, then rest for 5 minutes.
Now, add essential oils or abrasives (cornmeal, ground oats, cocoa powder, ground coffee, etc.). Stir gently to incorporate fully, and then carefully pour into your molds. I use about 20 to 30 drops of essential oils for this size batch and 1/4 cup of abrasives.
After the soap is poured, cover with lids or cardboard and wrap in heavy towels. Place these somewhere they won’t be disturbed, as they’re still caustic and can burn you! I place mine on top of my cupboard. Allow to sit for 6 to 12 hours until firm to the touch. Cut the soap into bars and release from the molds. Stack the bars in a staggered fashion to cure for 2 to 4 weeks. Make sure the area is ventilated. After the curing time, you may store your bars in plastic boxes or paper bags or wrap them individually.
Here are a few of my favorite variations to make:
- Coffee soap: 16 ounces lukewarm old coffee, 20 to 30 drops coffee essential oil, and 1/4 cup ground coffee.
- Chocolate mint soap bars: 16 ounces lukewarm peppermint tea, 20 to 30 drops peppermint essential oil and 1/4 unsweetened cocoa powder. Warning: these look and smell like brownies!
- Lavender soap: 16 ounces lukewarm lavender tea, 20 to 30 drops lavender essential oil, 1/4 cup dried lavender buds.
- Oatmeal, honey, and cinnamon soap: 2 tablespoons honey, 1/4 cup ground oats, and 1 tablespoon cinnamon, all added right before pouring.
Where to Find Your Supplies?
I buy my lye in bulk, and coconut oil, essential oils, and molds online. I generally source my tallow, abrasives, and herbs locally. Ask a local butcher for a non-food grade tallow for a cheap or free fat. Only buy lye that’s food grade, as many others have additives that will degrade your soap. I only use pure essential oils, not fragrance oils. I color my soaps with natural things like tea, coffee, herbs, flowers, or cocoa.
Try to keep your homemade soap dry between uses to prolong its lifespan. To figure out how many bars you’ll need for a year, figure on an average of 1 to 2 bars per week. This recipe may be increased by 1-1/2 or doubled. However, if you double it, you’ll need a larger container (a 3-gallon plastic bucket works well).
This is just one more way to reduce your dependency on the store, make your own customizable cleansers and gain a great sense of accomplishment. Happy soap making!
Jenny Underwood is a homeschooling mama to four lively blessings. She makes her home in the rural foothills of the Ozark Mountains with her husband of 20 years. You can find her reading a good book, drinking coffee, and gardening on their little fifth-generation homestead. Keep up on her blog here.
Originally published in the January/February 2025 issue of Countryside and Small Stock Journal and regularly vetted for accuracy.
